The Climb Club: Vegan Yorkshire Puddings That Puff, Not Sulk

Yorkshire puddings are one of those things that look simple until you try to make them without eggs. The batter is only a handful of ingredients, the oven does most of the work, and yet the results can range from golden skyscrapers to pale little pancakes with a greasy bottom. If you have stood at the oven door willing a tray of vegan batter to rise, you are in the right place.

At VegFolk we have been testing egg-free Yorkies with aquafaba, chickpea flour, soy milk, oat milk and a few hopeful experiments that shall remain nameless. The good news is that vegan Yorkshire puddings are not a lottery. They are a set of small variables: batter consistency, resting time, oil temperature, oven temperature and knowing when to leave the door shut. Get those right and the climb becomes surprisingly repeatable.

Start with a batter that has a job to do

Eggs normally bring structure, lift and richness. In a vegan batter, aquafaba can whip in air and add protein, chickpea flour gives body and a gentle savoury note, and unsweetened soy milk brings enough protein to help the whole thing set. This base uses aquafaba and a little chickpea flour because it is the most reliable combination we have found in a domestic oven.

The VegFolk base recipe

Makes 12 in a standard muffin tin.

• 120g plain flour
• 30g chickpea flour
• ½ tsp fine sea salt
• 300ml unsweetened soy milk
• 90ml aquafaba, lightly whisked (from a can of chickpeas)
• 4 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil, for the tin

Method:

1. Whisk the plain flour, chickpea flour and salt in a large bowl. Pour in the soy milk and aquafaba. Whisk until smooth, then give it a final scrape around the edges with a spatula. The batter should look like double cream, not thick hummus and not watery milk.
2. Rest the batter for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or cover and chill for up to 24 hours. If it has been in the fridge, let it sit for 20 minutes and give it a good stir before using.
3. Heat the oven to 220°C fan/240°C conventional/Gas 9. Put a teaspoon of oil in each hole of a metal muffin tin. Heat the tin in the oven for 10–12 minutes, until the oil is shimmering and almost smoking.
4. Stir the batter once more. Working quickly, pour it into the hot oil, filling each hole about three-quarters full. Do not overfill; the batter needs room to climb.
5. Bake for 18–22 minutes without opening the oven door for the first 15 minutes. They are ready when deep golden, crisp at the edges and hollow-sounding when tapped underneath.
6. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a low oven with the door slightly ajar for no more than 10 minutes.

Diagnosing the usual suspects

Flat discs

Flat Yorkies usually mean not enough heat or too much liquid. Check that the oven has actually reached temperature; an oven thermometer is more useful than the dial. The oil must be genuinely hot before the batter goes in, and the batter should be thick enough to coat a spoon but still pourable. If your batter is thin, whisk in another tablespoon of plain flour and rest it for 10 minutes. Also make sure you are not overcrowding the tin: batter needs space to expand.

Soggy bottoms

A soggy bottom is usually a sign that the oil was not hot enough, the batter was too cold, or the pudding needed longer in the oven. Use a metal tin rather than silicone, which does not conduct heat in the same way. Preheat the tin properly, pour the batter into shimmering oil, and resist the urge to pull them out as soon as they look puffed. A few extra minutes gives the base time to crisp.

Uneven rises

Ovens have hotspots, and muffin tins can warp. If one side of the tray browns faster, turn the tin after 15 minutes, once the puddings have set their shape. Stir the batter before pouring so the chickpea flour has not settled, and try to fill each hole to the same level. A warped tin is worth replacing; a level tin gives a much more even bake.

Pale, tough or chewy results

Pale puddings often need more heat or a little less liquid. Tough ones can come from a batter that is too thick or from baking so long that the edges harden. Stick to the visual cues: deep golden colour, crisp sides and a hollow centre. If your oven runs cool, give them five more minutes rather than turning up the heat wildly, which can burn the tops before the middle sets.

The variables that matter most

Oil temperature. The oil is not just there to stop sticking. It creates steam and sets the edges fast, which is what starts the climb. Heat the tin until the oil shimmers. Be careful when pouring the batter; wear an oven glove and keep your face back.

Oven temperature. A hot oven is non-negotiable. Preheat for at least 20 minutes. If you are baking a roast at a lower temperature, cook the Yorkies first, then turn the oven down and keep them warm.

Resting time. A short rest hydrates the flour and gives a more tender result. Overnight in the fridge works well for planning ahead, but bring the batter back towards room temperature and stir it thoroughly.

Plant milk choice. Unsweetened soy milk is our default because its protein helps structure. Oat milk works but can be thinner, so use slightly less. Almond milk is usually too thin on its own. Avoid sweetened or vanilla milks unless you want pudding with a strange backnote.

Sunday roasts and leftover toad-in-the-hole

For a Sunday roast, make the Yorkies in a 12-hole muffin tin and serve them the moment the gravy is ready. If you want a bigger, more traditional shape, use a four-hole Yorkshire pudding tin and give them a few extra minutes. They freeze well: cool completely, freeze on a tray, then reheat from frozen at 200°C fan for 8–10 minutes.

Any leftover batter can become a small toad-in-the-hole. Brown some vegan sausages in a hot oiled roasting tin, pour over the remaining batter and bake at 200°C fan for 25–30 minutes, until puffed and golden. It is not a bad way to use up a Sunday morning's worth of batter, and it feels suitably British in the best possible way.

Vegan Yorkshire puddings do not need to be fragile or fussy. They need a batter with enough body, a properly hot tin and an oven you trust. Once you have those, the climb club is open to everyone.