Fry-Day Feeling: A Chip-Shop Supper That Happens to Be Vegan

There is a particular sound to a chip shop on a Friday: the low hum of the fryer, the clatter of the metal scoop and the rustle of paper as someone ahead of you gets their change. It is a sound that says the week is over. The good news for plant-based eaters in 2026 is that you no longer have to stand outside with a lonely portion of chips while everyone else tucks into battered haddock. You can make the whole chippy tea at home, and honestly, it is better than most of the vegan versions you will queue for.

This is not a lecture about authenticity. It is a practical guide to a Friday-night supper that satisfies vegans, pescatarians and the uncle who reckons nothing counts without cod. The trick is to build the plate in the right order: chips first, batter second, sauces third, and a little theatre at the end.

Chips are the foundation, not the side

Start with floury potatoes: Maris Piper, King Edward or a decent all-rounder. Cut them into thick fingers, about 1.5cm, and rinse them under cold water until the water runs clear. Dry them properly with a tea towel. Wet chips are sad chips. Heat a neutral oil to 140C and fry them for six to eight minutes, until they are soft but pale. Lift them out and let them steam and cool for at least ten minutes. Turn the oil up to 180C and fry again for two to three minutes, until they are golden and crisp. Salt immediately. If you are doing this for a crowd, keep the first batch warm on a wire rack in a low oven. Do not pile them in a bowl where they can steam themselves soft. A chip-shop chip should be crisp at the edges and fluffy in the middle, and the double fry is how you get there without beef dripping.

The batter: cold, bubbly and brief

Use 100g plain flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, a pinch of turmeric and a good pinch of salt. Pour in about 150ml of cold beer or sparkling water and whisk until just combined. Lumps are fine. Leave it to rest for ten minutes while the oil comes up to 180C. The batter should be thin enough to coat but thick enough to cling. Do not make it in advance and do not over-whisk it. Cold batter into hot oil is the whole game. Fry each piece for three to four minutes, until deep golden and crisp. Drain on a rack, not on kitchen paper, which traps steam and softens the crust.

Banana blossom, tofu or a bag from the freezer

The supermarket answer first. Own-label breaded fishless fillets are much better than they were a few years ago. Sainsbury's Plant Pioneers, Tesco Plant Chef and M&S Plant Kitchen all sell versions, and the frozen ones are the most reliable. Check the label for egg and milk; most are vegan, but not all. They are handy for a midweek tea, but they are not the star of a Friday chippy night. Pre-battered fillets often go limp under homemade curry sauce, and the seasoning can be aggressively lemony.

For the proper job, use banana blossom in brine. You will find tins in larger supermarkets and Asian grocers. Drain, rinse, pat dry and cut into wedges, removing any woody core. Season with salt, pepper and a little crushed nori or seaweed. It has a flaky, artichoke-ish texture that takes batter beautifully.

Tofu is the other reliable route. Press extra-firm tofu for 20 minutes, slice into 1.5cm steaks and marinate for 15 minutes in lemon juice, soy sauce, a splash of water and a pinch of nori. The marinade is not there to make it taste like fish; it is there to season it. Freeze and thaw the tofu first if you want a spongier, more absorbent texture. Pat it dry before battering, or the batter will slide off.

Mushy peas and curry sauce: the quiet heroes

Mushy peas are easy if you plan ahead. Soak 250g dried marrowfat peas overnight with a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda. Drain, rinse and simmer for 45 to 60 minutes with salt and pepper until they collapse. Add a splash of vinegar and a knob of vegan butter at the end. Tinned mushy peas are a perfectly good shortcut; warm them gently and add vinegar. Do not serve them cold and stiff.

Chip-shop curry sauce is not a curry. It is a sweet, mild, fruity gravy, and it is the thing that makes the whole plate sing. Soften an onion and a small apple in oil, add a tablespoon of mild curry powder, a tablespoon of plain flour, then pour in 300ml vegetable stock. Simmer for 15 minutes, add a spoon of mango chutney and a splash of soy sauce, then blend until smooth. Make it the day before if you can; it improves overnight.

Build the plate, then call the queue

Warm your paper, or a plate if you are being civilised. Pile on the chips, add the battered banana blossom or tofu, and spoon over mushy peas and curry sauce. Salt and vinegar at the table, not in the kitchen, so everyone gets their own ratio. Add a pickled onion, a slice of bread and butter and a strong cup of tea. If you are feeding a mixed table, cook a tray of shop-bought fillets alongside and let people choose. The point is not to prove a point. The point is to have a Friday night that feels like a Friday night.

The chip shop queue can keep its cod. The Friday feeling is ours.